I replaced both rear bearings on my Brabus as it 'appeared' the sound
was from the rear...but as you can guess, the noise did not go away
and to this day is still there !

castled tyres can cause a bearing type noise.

Front wheel bearing change is not something many; if any; can or could undertake.
It needs to be done using a specialised wheel bearing extractor (puller and press)
as well as a haevy duty vice to hold the hub, and a very large sized long ring spanner.
I have seen it done 'in situ' on the car by Rob at S2smarts....not a nice job.

SKF make the best replacement bearing....and it is a one time fit job...get it wrong and
the cage that surrounds the bearing is easily 'messed up' rendering it unusable to retry !
GET A GARAGE TO DO THE JOB.


The 'tool' in question is (possibly 'was') sold/marketed by Lazer....part number is 5823.
Cost new (back in Aug 2018) was £615.50 !
1 such was offered on here by Al Young (the Chairperson of the Smart Club) back then
and I aquired it...but nowhere near that price thankfully.  I don't know where i've 'hidden'
it, I've used it once myself, so it's possibly at the very back corner in my lock-up garage
behind/beneath everything 454 that's crammed into the place...it's choca !
(A case of open the doors...yep it's full alright..no space..for more or to get into it ! Close the doors)

Identifying which wheel bearing needs replacing is not a simple task,
as many others will testify. But...putting the car up on axle stands
or on a hoist and spinning each wheel in turn and listening for any
telltale signs/sounds is just about the only way...as well as checking
for any noticeable 'play' in the wheel (as in wobble).

I replaced both rear bearings on my Brabus as it 'appeared' the sound
was from the rear...but as you can guess, the noise did not go away
and to this day is still there !  So at some time I'll have to replace
both fronts; not just 1; just to be 100% sure.

Be very aware that there are cheap 'chinese' repro bearings on the
market, and that cheap unknown/unbranded wheel bearings can be
rubbish and fail sooner than the more expensive good quality ones.
But having said that there can be issues even with those !
1 of the rear (SKF) bearings that I opened and inspected out of a
brand new sealed box was found to be 'sloppy' ! That got returned
to the supplier and was replaced with one that I checked out before
leaving the premises...just to be sure I got a good one.

So...how should one check to see if you can find the noisy cuplrit ?
What better than the old fashioned way of spinning up each wheel
in turn and placing a long handled screwdriver (or similar 'tool')
against the area close to the bearing and the other end placed
close to your ear (or on your jawbone) to listen for any signs.
Also, while the wheel is stopped, test for any noticeable wobble
across the face of it horizontally and then vertically by grabbing
the outer edges of the tyres at the 12 and 6 o'clock position, and
then the 3 and 9 o'clock position.
 
Other than that I'm not sure what else to suggest.
Has anyone else got any idea's or suggestions to make on this ?

I think I may have a front wheel bearing gone bad, but I'm not sure if this is something I can tackle at home with normal tools.

Are the rear ones easier than the front ones? There's a video here where we can see a front one being extracted but we can't see how it was the process of the new one going in, I think I may leave this to the garage to do as there are many variables that can go wrong if I try to DIY this.

Has been sold already so I will keep looking for normal versions .
Thanks

just but the 75hp version rather than pratting about converting or messing about.

there are plenty 1.1 to choose from

The pictures of the engine show the cover with variable valve timing on it so I was assuming this would be a VVT engine.
A very informative reply .
Thanks

The 454 Coolstyle models were the final 'end of the run' models that were produced.
As the production of the 454 were coming to an end they 'ran down'/ran out of various
parts, and they substituted the disc braked rears with the drum brake rears that they
were still fitting to the Mitsi Colt.
(Both vehicles at the time were built on the same production lines in the same factory)
Other items such as the Colt heater controls also found there way into these 454's,
and even (if I remember correctly) the lower powered non-variable valve timed engines
that were fitted to lower CZ1 range of Colt models were fitted into the Coolstyle 454's.
These engines were the 1.1, 1.3, and 1.5 petrol engines.

Both the non-variable and variable valve timed engines used the same engine block
casting (for each partiuclar size, obviously), machined to the same bore and stroke,
and they even look the same at first glance, but they are not !
The difference is that the variable valved timed engines have an additional small opening
machined into the top left on one side of the engine block, and that is necessary to
fit/mount the additional components that work to achieve the variable valve timing.

There is no simple way to convert or to add those components to the engine to enable
them to be brought up to the same level of power as the variable valve timed engine.
In addition, the existing wiring loom might not have the additional wiring for this, and/or
the ECU might not have the necessary progamming coded into it to enable it to operate
the variable valve timing even if the additional components were fitted.

I have driven a 1.3 Colt with and a 1.3 Colt without variable valve timing, and the most
noticeable difference is that the latter is somewhat flat né gutless when accelerating.

Hi ,
Have seen a Coolstyle 1.1 64 Hp and was wondering how the performance is ?
Also any easy way to get it to the standard 75Hp output?
Thanks

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