forfour.co.uk
Forum => General Smart Chat => Topic started by: UncleNos on February 04, 2021, 04:57:59 PM
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So the smart has sat for a couple of months now. Time to rollup the selves and get on with it.
First things first, The steering rack seems to be a little wonky and looks like some work has been attempted to it previously (one of the arms has been changed). So looking at getting a replacement and swapping it out, which leads to the first question, is it the same as a colt steering rack from the same year (2005)?
Second bit of work is the cutch, is there any guides for this?
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Hi UncleNos,
If you have a petrol 454, Engine, clutch etc. is exactly the same as a Mitsubishi Colt from the same period. (Petrol Gen1 ForFours use Mitsubishi engines, Diesels use Merc engines).
Below is the well shared link to an online service manual for 2008 Colt. It will give accurate information for servicing. Just make sure you select the engine to match whichever ForFour you own.
http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/colt/online/Service_Manual/2008/index_M1.htm
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Huge thanks for that, I though this was the case but was looking for someone with the Knowledge to confirm it. I have bought a replacement steering rack so will post up the change out and hopefully the fix on that soon now on to the clutch. Any suggestions :-\
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...I have bought a replacement steering rack.....
New or refurbed...but whatever the case, who from and dare
I ask...how much ? I ask as there does appear to be a rise in
our 454's having steering rack issues...age I presume, so any
info would be handy/helpful.
By the way, you do not say which model (engine/transmission etc)
of 454 that you have the pleasure of owning ?
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Second hand from eBay only £75 delivered, worth a punt.
Sorry it's a 1.3 05 plate pulse manual.
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It is always advisable to state the details of your ForFour
when asking questions in posts as it helps others to give
specific answers to that model/variant rather than for
example giving you advice for a Brabus when yours is
not a Brabus, or for an AMT when yours is a manual, ok.
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So at the weekend I plugged in the replacement steering rack and module and still showing the EPS light GRRRRRR any ideas welcome. I was really hoping to be starting on the clutch this weekend but if I can't get the steering rack issue sorted I'm not going any further with the repairs at the moment.
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I cannot guarantee it, but you may need to have the fault code cleared
before the EPS light will extinguish.
3 ways of seeing if that will do the job.....
1/ with a Star machine. (MB will charge a bomb...an 'indie' less than half that...or..
anyone you can find that has a 'personal' Star machine...cough cough)
OR....
2/ via a OBD2 reader that is capable of clearing fault codes.
(Most garages; and even a lot of non garage people; have generic code readers
that can do it.
OR....
3/ via an OBD2 'ELM327' Blutooth adapter and the associated App for your Smartphone...
If it's an iPhone it'll be Dashboard, if it is Android it'll be Torque Pro.
Either of those Apps have to be paid for. (Torque Lite..the free App for Android,
cannot clear fault codes.
As you say the rack is secondhand, it may be faultly....BUT...rather than buy an ELM327
and pay for an App...see if you can find someone with a handheld OBD2 generic fault
code reader (that can clear fault codes) and have it checked and try to clear the code.
If it works then you've saved buying the ELM327 and the App.
The choice is however yours to make.
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I have a generic fault code reader and it isn't showing any fault code to read or clear which is one of the very frustrating bits. If it said you have a fault code p0016 I could go check that out but nope nothing....
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Does the EPS have fusible links on the battery positive terminal like the ABS/ESP?
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So at the weekend I plugged in the replacement steering rack and module and still showing the EPS light GRRRRRR any ideas welcome.....
Apologies for not seeing this earlier (or my brain not up to speed)....
EPS = Electronic Power Steering....and you say 'EPS light' ???
If by that you mean the light at the top centre in the speedo/revcounter then
it is in fact the ESP - Electronic Stability Programme warning light.
That won't go out till you start the engine. If it stays on when started then
you have a totally different issue.
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Just realised that too.
Looks like another issue but the steering felt wonky so made the 2+2=37 mistake.
There is nothing showing non a basic reader so looks like I need to get something better on it....
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So, just to confirm you are seeing the yellow '!' in a triangle - If so that is ESP - (if anyone in doubt, see img below)
If so, there should defo be a code to read somewhere. I seem to recall not all readers can reach ESP/ABS codes, being specific to the car model and not generic.
Here's the link I posted before (again); check section 35C for a list of parts which constitute ESP (called Active Stability Control in Mitsubishi land):
http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/colt/online/Service_Manual/2008/index_M1.htm
The other thing to mention (which you probably know) is that ESP also reads from the ABS wheel speed sensors, so if you don't have an ABS light on as well then those shared components are unlikely to be the culprits triggering the ESP warning.
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I have both lights on, I ended up thinking it was the rack as I had thought it drove very strangely after I picked her up, sold as seen ::)
Yes I think you are right with the lack of ability to read the ABS area with a generic unit.
I will have another look at the rest of the components around the front wheel area.
I really want to get the car back on the road and feel that it can't be too much that is wrong.
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If both lights are on you'll want to look at the sensors and components shared by both ABS and ESP. You can use the link above to cross reference, but the list isn't long.
The wheel speed sensors & reluctor rings are where you'll want to focus first IMHO.
A read from a 100% compatible OBD reader should pinpoint the issue, it might be worth finding someone with pro level kit who will do you a favour just to get those codes.
My mechanic did it for me for a tenner when I needed it.
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A couple of members have reported similar issues and had to fit replacements.
The 'usual' cuplrits are :-
1/ the Yaw Rate/Lateral Acceleration sensor...
OR..
2/ a Wheel Speed sensor (usually in a rear wheel hub bearing unit) that
has been damaged somehow or other....usually when removing the
rear wheel as the sensor can be a real tight fit...or the wires break.
Both can and will affect the way the car drives...but to identify which of
those is the culprit one needs a code reader that can actually 'see' the
relevant ABS/ESP fault codes that some readers can't.
Hope you find someone who can get that data....as El Tel has suggested ?